C2C: Reeth to Brompton-on-Swale

 

I was quite tired today, mainly bothered by my feet. I woke up at 4.30 in the morning feeling cold, and with the sides of my legs aching (possibly from walking in sandals yesterday?) so I got up, packed up and dismantled my tent. Put tent in the drying room of the YHA and then had another two hours’ kip on the sofa in the nice warm lounge. 

En route to the warm lounge at dawn

Had a huge YHA breakfast and set off around 9.30. It was another day of lush green valley and archetypal English trees. Quite easy and mostly level paths. 

Leaving the YHA

Loads of spring-loaded gate stiles over the last few days, 
some like this and others high up on walls.
Many very narrow to squeeze a pack through!

Gleaming Swale

Stopped here for our mid-morning snack

We got to Richmond towards lunchtime and treated ourselves to halloumi, beetroot and pomegranate salad in The Little Drummer Boy tea shop. Was vaguely hopeful of finding a hiking shoe shop so I could buy a soft, comfy pair of trail shoes but there wasn’t anything. I’d had to change into my sandals again, a short while into the day, but sandals aren’t ideal for the feet and knees. 

Delicieux!

We met Mark on the path today, now accompanied by his wife. We’ve been seeing him since the cliff at St Bees, and had some good chat with him at dinner and breakfast in Shap. We also keep bumping into an Australian couple. Last night in the YHA they were saying that they were skipping today’s section due to blisters, and Elizabeth joked that we might see them in Boots in Richmond. Weirdly enough, we actually did bump into them there today - all of us buying multiple packs of Compeed blister plasters.

From Richmond we had another four miles to walk to get to St Giles Farm, where we’re staying tonight. My feet were aching and I had the heaviest pack ever, laden down not only with my walking shoes but also with some dinner for tonight (delicious frittata from a deli) and a massive raspberry scone and butter from the tea shop. (I’ve just eaten the whole scone, which weighed a ton in my pack and is now doing likewise in my stomach.)

The farm is in the middle of nowhere and is blissful. We were greeted with a big smile and jolly face, and then a tray of tea and cake. We have the whole lawn to ourselves, complete with friendly dogs and a large clutch of very relaxed hens who are quite curious as to whether our tents are edible. We have a ramshackle but warm room with sink, kettle, shower etc and - wonder of wonders - freshly laundered towels and shampoo etc.  Most exciting. I made the mistake of pitching my tent too far away from the house to get the wifi signal, so am sitting inside writing this. Bedtime soon as we have a long day tomorrow - 18 miles to walk. 

Ooh Madame! (Note hopeful dog.)

Eating our dinner in luxury