Wednesday, October 16, 2024

Via Francigena: Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano

 


We were up and out early this morning, before 8.30, to try to beat the weather forecast which was promising rain in the afternoon. We eventually ended up walking in three pairs - Esther and Jo in the vanguard, Elizabeth and I behind them, and Caroline and Sarah bring up the rear.  The landscape was beautiful today, wide-reaching views across the hills. We walked past lots of wineries and gorgeous villas set in peaceful enclaves. It was misty and atmospheric. It was just a short day, and as the middle pair we arrived in San Gimignano at noon and joined Jo and Esther for a leisurely coffee until the remaining pair turned up. It was raining for the last hour or so but we were well/prepared with our waterproofs. 

The day began with an exquisite panoramic sunrise above the landscape, to the sound of cicadas and birds waking up and lights still twinkling across far-away towns

The little grey door of our guesthouse



Yay!


Yours Truly with weird
life-size nativity figures in Pancole

San Gimignano is the most substantial and tourism-driven town we’ve seen so far and was busy with tour groups in the afternoon but pretty empty at night. We visited the cathedral which had amazing frescoes from the 14th-15th centuries, full of human detail. I especially liked Taddeo Di Bartolo’s depiction of hell, which reminded me of Hieronymus Bosch. 


Makeshift skirts compulsory for shorts-wearers
in the cathedral


We found a lovely little restaurant and had tagliatelle with funghi and truffle. Finished by 8.30 and then straight back to our guesthouse and to bed. 15 kilometres to walk tomorrow and we’re setting off by 8am to try to dodge the rain again. 

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