Ridgeway: Avebury to Ogbourne St George

 

Caught the 10.15 train from Paddington to Swindon, passed mercifully quickly through Swindon (depressing and run-down, bus station covered in pigeon poo) and was in Avebury by 12.15. A nice little village, consisting mainly of a National Trust centre and museum about the Neolithic stone circles there. The stones are big and are all over the place. 

South of Avebury, I passed Silbury Hill, which (incredibly) is man-made. It’s the second tallest prehistoric artificial mound in Europe, and one of the biggest in the world, of similar volume to an Egyptian pyramid. About 40 metres high.

In Avebury - who left that there?

Long barrow

I accidentally detoured slightly up to the famous Long Barrow, up a hill. I didn’t realise you could have a look in an underground chamber.

I had to do a bit of map reading to find my way to the start of the Ridgeway. It was further than I’d expected, nearly four miles. I had to do a curve round to the south and back up again. You’d think there’d be a more direct path really - I mean, they’ve had thousands of years to get on with it. 

Start of the Ridgeway - not much to look at.

The path was very level today, and very hard underfoot. Chalk and stones. Stone-quarrying was big business here for hundreds of years and there are still quite a few dotted around in the fields that look quite regular in shape and were probably dressed and then not sold. 

Dressed stones left lying around

I had expected it to be a bit boring and I was pleasantly surprised as there were far-reaching views most of the way and it was all very pleasant. It was windy up on the ridge but I kept moving and didn’t need my down gilet or coat as the exercise kept me warm. I barely met another walker all day, but there were a few cyclists. I had mild hail a couple of times, and beautiful late afternoon sunshine for the final hour. But the soles of my feet were hurting and so were some neck and back muscles, as this is probably the heaviest pack I’ve carried. I thought I’d take more this time to get into practice for the C2C in June. It gets quite uncomfortable after a few hours. The problem is all on my right hand side. 

Finally arrived at my amusingly-named destination

My toe (the usual suspect) started bothering me in the last couple of hours, highly annoying. It’s only the first day! My guesthouse room has its own bathroom with a bath, which is amazing - I had a lovely soak when I arrived. Then pre-ordered dinner and Eastenders, yay! 

About to have bath and tea.
Note pink, wind-whipped cheeks