SWCP: Fowey to Looe

So, I knew today would be a challenge on my day-4 legs, but actually the more limited amount of walking yesterday seemed to have improved their stamina. Up at 8 and posted some of my stuff home so that I wouldn’t have to carry it. Good move. Had breakfast in the lovely hotel dining room overlooking the water, and got the ferry at about 9.30. Got to Polruan and started walking, only to realise I was empty-handed. I’d left my walking poles at the hotel and not once while waiting for the ferry, or on the ferry, had I realised they were missing. I knew I wouldn’t be able to manage the walk without them, so had to get the ferry back across. The bastard ferry man charged me three fares. 

No, I didn’t jump overboard

So this meant I didn’t start walking till almost 10 o’clock. The weather was perfect, a cool breeze but warm. The views between Fowey and Polperro were beautiful, enhanced by the fact that there were loads of hills to climb and therefore a succession of vantage points. I was rather concerned that I wouldn’t make the train back to London in reasonable time so I walked extra fast today, which was quite challenging. Wore my sandals and my feet were ok.

A few scenes from the day. The photos don’t do it justice. The slopes were scattered with autumn colours which don’t show up too well in pictures. The town of Polperro was very scenic. Would be nice to go back some time at more leisure.

We're ready for our close-up now

Polperro

To my surprise, I made it to Looe in time for the 3.15 train with half an hour to spare. I soothed my feet in the sea for a few minutes, which made all the difference. The only time any part of me has been in the sea this trip. It wasn’t massively cold. Having said that, I haven’t seen many people swimming, although there have been a few surfers in wetsuits. 

Oooooohhhhhhhhh

I also lovingly made myself a cup of tea which I purchased from a cafe. Was really looking forward to drinking it, but it was too hot to hold as I walked to the station so I made the schoolboy error of holding it by its flimsy lid and it fell from my hand and splashed all over the pavement. Gutting!

Crocheted all the way back to London. Got home at 930, currently girding loins for being back at work. Really happy that I managed to do the whole route. Nearly 50 miles in total!

SWCP: Par to Fowey

Strava went a bit loony and cut off the final mile or so.

Bit drizzly this morning but by the time I got off the bus in Par towards 10 o’clock the sun was coming out, and after that it was mostly a lovely sunny day. My legs felt less tired today, but I was carrying all my stuff which, with the new coat etc, made an appreciable difference. The distance and elevation were only half of the previous days’ and I took it fairly easy. Unfortunately my feet weren’t 100% and I found that an existing blister was getting worse and that my feet were swollen and too hot. Once again, I hadn’t slept very well in the Airbnb. 

By the time I set off from Polmear beach, the day had brightened. 

The day mark on Gribbin Head warns sailors
of a submerged rock

One of the many lovely coves along this stretch

And so, to beautiful Fowey

They upgraded me to a room with a view. Lovely hotel! Had an absolutely blissful hot shower, fluffy towels and essential oil shampoo etc. Looked around Fowey a bit, lots of nice shops for people with a bit of money to spare. Got a delicious falafel salad for dinner from Sam’s  Brasserie just along the road.

Treated myself to a drink on the hotel terrace

I’ve been musing and pondering all day over what to do tomorrow. If there had been any buses running eastwards from here today, I’d have walked further to lessen tomorrow’s distance, but there weren’t because it’s Sunday. The distance is 12 miles but it’s 3000 feet of ascent and I have my full pack to carry, and a pesky blistered foot. Also I have to get to Liskeard well in time for a 345 train, or 415 for the next one. Bus takes about an hour. I guess I’ll play it by ear tomorrow but I can’t see myself fitting it all in. This is the downside of moving further and further west but walking eastwards - you risk getting left with a little unfinished bit. I suppose revisiting Fowey wouldn’t be much of a hardship though!

SWCP: Portloe to Mevagissey

 Tough day today. My legs were tired from the start and there were a lot of hills. Feet not quite as comfortable as yesterday, and I was glad I’d brought my sandals as I changed into them after three and a half hours of walking and that was quite a relief. It had rained a lot in the night so there was a fair amount of mud to negotiate, but a lot of today’s route was on springy, peaty paths surrounded by ferns and alive with little midgey flies. Also a lot of nettles to avoid - I guess it’s a really moist climate here.

The day started with an hour’s bus ride and then amazing weather - sunny with not a breath of wind. It got cloudier and a bit windy by the afternoon, which was actually good as I hadn’t brought any sun cream and  also appreciated the cooling breeze. 

Looking back towards Portloe

Looking forward to the Caerhays estate

Lots of pheasants as I approached Caerhays Castle. They wibbled stupidly along the fence ahead of me as I walked down the side of the field.

More cows than sheep today.
Busy making cream for the Cornish teas!

Huge Christian monument on Dodman Head

Mevagissey finally hove into view at last.

Rewarded myself with a coffee while I waited
for the bus back to St Austell

I stopped off and bought a waterproof coat on the way home, as heavy rain is forecast for the morning and I’m basically unable to navigate it in that useless mac. Home now, waiting for hot water for a much-needed shower. Wondering if I’ll really be able to manage another 19 miles over the next two days, with full rucksack. Also hope I sleep well tonight. The irony of these trips is that despite all the exercise, I often can’t sleep. Not sure why. Aching legs don’t help.

SWCP: Mevagissey to Par

Worked Thursday morning and then got the 2pm train to St Austell. Unlike when I came down to Cornwall a few weeks ago, the train was nice and quiet - in fact, I had a table all to myself the whole way. Very relaxing. The Airbnb is very lovely, all done out in Orla Kiely and bright prints by Cornwall artists. Tres chic. Had a catch-up chat with Jude in the evening. 

I knew at least a week ago that the weather was going to be atrocious at some point today. The forecast kept changing, but it became clear that the morning would be ok. So I swapped the first two sections around so that I could stop at Charlestown (the nearest seafront from my Airbnb) if the weather proved too much by the time I got there. In the event, I soldiered on despite the rain, which was being blown across in sheets. I was wearing my new walking shoes and overtrousers which kept me perfectly dry and warm from the waist downwards. Unfortunately I can’t say the same for my pac a mac which got very damp with condensation on the inside. I was ok as long as I kept walking. Walked from 9 till 3 with just a short break to sit and eat a sandwich in Charlestown harbour. The morning was super. I met not a single other walker, so I had the path all to myself, with its blackberries and turquoise waters. It was very still and I could hear the wash of the sea, the odd crow, at one point I think the moo of a cow. Towards midday I noticed all the cows were lying down, and shortly afterwards the rain began. My sticks made all the difference - I don’t think I could have been on my feet for six hours without them. At the end of the walk I waited nearly an hour in the Par Inn for the next bus, having checked with them that the bus stop just outside was the right one. Had a cup of tea in there and changed into my dry coat and fleece. Turns out publicans don’t really have much to do with buses - it didn’t turn up, and it turned out there was a diversion in place. So another half hour’s wait at the correct stop. VERY pleased when the bus finally arrived! Got home about 4 o’clock and had a shower to warm up. Legs aching a bit. Hope they’ll be able to tackle tomorrow’s walk OK - similar length to today’s, but then on Sunday I only have about 7 miles.

Mevagissey harbour

Very picturesque

Plenty of private land along the way,
dotted with expensive-looking houses with views

The lady herself, just north of Pentewan,
a holiday resort just outside Mevagissey. Still dry!

Huge granite memorial to Cornish poet A L Rowse,
 near Black Head

Too bloody steep! Note steps on far side of valley.

The turquoise water of St Austell bay

No photos were taken east of Charlestown. My camera was so wet that the touchscreen stopped working properly, and I was concerned I might run out of battery before needing to tap in for my bus fare. It just about made it till I got home though. Most of the route seemed to be alongside a very long and pristine golf course, the wind and rain whipping across it. Amazingly, I did cross paths with a pair of walkers with their dog. They looked as wet and windswept as I did. 

SWCP: Hope Cove to Salcombe

Today was another gorgeously sunny day. Colin stayed at the Airbnb nursing his sore ankles and helping Wilson who has cut his paw and is feeling very sorry for himself.

Leaving Hope Cove behind

Some precipitous drops around here. Also very red earth.

 

Master of all he surveys…

Appreciating my sticks.

A mix of gorse bushes and ferns all along here

Soar Mill Cove, halfway between Hope Cove and Bolt Head

We were at about the halfway point here

Turquoise water

Round about here we saw a bird of prey (maybe a kestrel) swoop down beside a hedge and emerge with a rodent in its claws. Nature in action!

Starehole Bay, just around Bolt Head

Further along there were some great rocky bits like this one. Nathan ran ahead at this point like an escaped lunatic. He was the Running Man on the far hillside, followed by a cloud of dust.

Then Salcombe came within sight!

Colin was waiting for us there with the car. We had a pleasant wander around the town and a pasty etc. 

Colin’s trousers not pink/mustard enough 

I had a swim by the Winking Prawn and then it was time for Nathan to catch his bus to Totnes, where he’s getting a train back to London. Colin and I went back to feed Wilson and then popped back out to Hope Cove for a wee drinkie overlooking the sunset. Bootiful!

Driving back in the morning while the Queen's funeral is on. Missing a National Moment but at least there won't be much traffic.

(Postscript: we got home in 3 hours 40!)