Worked Thursday morning and then got the 2pm train to St Austell. Unlike when I came down to Cornwall a few weeks ago, the train was nice and quiet - in fact, I had a table all to myself the whole way. Very relaxing. The Airbnb is very lovely, all done out in Orla Kiely and bright prints by Cornwall artists. Tres chic. Had a catch-up chat with Jude in the evening.
I knew at least a week ago that the weather was going to be atrocious at some point today. The forecast kept changing, but it became clear that the morning would be ok. So I swapped the first two sections around so that I could stop at Charlestown (the nearest seafront from my Airbnb) if the weather proved too much by the time I got there. In the event, I soldiered on despite the rain, which was being blown across in sheets. I was wearing my new walking shoes and overtrousers which kept me perfectly dry and warm from the waist downwards. Unfortunately I can’t say the same for my pac a mac which got very damp with condensation on the inside. I was ok as long as I kept walking. Walked from 9 till 3 with just a short break to sit and eat a sandwich in Charlestown harbour. The morning was super. I met not a single other walker, so I had the path all to myself, with its blackberries and turquoise waters. It was very still and I could hear the wash of the sea, the odd crow, at one point I think the moo of a cow. Towards midday I noticed all the cows were lying down, and shortly afterwards the rain began. My sticks made all the difference - I don’t think I could have been on my feet for six hours without them. At the end of the walk I waited nearly an hour in the Par Inn for the next bus, having checked with them that the bus stop just outside was the right one. Had a cup of tea in there and changed into my dry coat and fleece. Turns out publicans don’t really have much to do with buses - it didn’t turn up, and it turned out there was a diversion in place. So another half hour’s wait at the correct stop. VERY pleased when the bus finally arrived! Got home about 4 o’clock and had a shower to warm up. Legs aching a bit. Hope they’ll be able to tackle tomorrow’s walk OK - similar length to today’s, but then on Sunday I only have about 7 miles.
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Mevagissey harbour |
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Very picturesque |
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Plenty of private land along the way, dotted with expensive-looking houses with views |

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The lady herself, just north of Pentewan, a holiday resort just outside Mevagissey. Still dry!
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Huge granite memorial to Cornish poet A L Rowse, near Black Head
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Too bloody steep! Note steps on far side of valley.
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The turquoise water of St Austell bay |
No photos were taken east of Charlestown. My camera was so wet that the touchscreen stopped working properly, and I was concerned I might run out of battery before needing to tap in for my bus fare. It just about made it till I got home though. Most of the route seemed to be alongside a very long and pristine golf course, the wind and rain whipping across it. Amazingly, I did cross paths with a pair of walkers with their dog. They looked as wet and windswept as I did.
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