Friday, September 30, 2022

SWCP: Mevagissey to Par


Worked Thursday morning and then got the 2pm train to St Austell. Unlike when I came down to Cornwall a few weeks ago, the train was nice and quiet - in fact, I had a table all to myself the whole way. Very relaxing. The Airbnb is very lovely, all done out in Orla Kiely and bright prints by Cornwall artists. Tres chic. Had a catch-up chat with Jude in the evening. 

I knew at least a week ago that the weather was going to be atrocious at some point today. The forecast kept changing, but it became clear that the morning would be ok. So I swapped the first two sections around so that I could stop at Charlestown (the nearest seafront from my Airbnb) if the weather proved too much by the time I got there. In the event, I soldiered on despite the rain, which was being blown across in sheets. I was wearing my new walking shoes and overtrousers which kept me perfectly dry and warm from the waist downwards. Unfortunately I can’t say the same for my pac a mac which got very damp with condensation on the inside. I was ok as long as I kept walking. Walked from 9 till 3 with just a short break to sit and eat a sandwich in Charlestown harbour. The morning was super. I met not a single other walker, so I had the path all to myself, with its blackberries and turquoise waters. It was very still and I could hear the wash of the sea, the odd crow, at one point I think the moo of a cow. Towards midday I noticed all the cows were lying down, and shortly afterwards the rain began. My sticks made all the difference - I don’t think I could have been on my feet for six hours without them. At the end of the walk I waited nearly an hour in the Par Inn for the next bus, having checked with them that the bus stop just outside was the right one. Had a cup of tea in there and changed into my dry coat and fleece. Turns out publicans don’t really have much to do with buses - it didn’t turn up, and it turned out there was a diversion in place. So another half hour’s wait at the correct stop. VERY pleased when the bus finally arrived! Got home about 4 o’clock and had a shower to warm up. Legs aching a bit. Hope they’ll be able to tackle tomorrow’s walk OK - similar length to today’s, but then on Sunday I only have about 7 miles.

Mevagissey harbour
Very picturesque
Plenty of private land along the way,
dotted with expensive-looking houses with views

The lady herself, just north of Pentewan,
a holiday resort just outside Mevagissey. Still dry!

Huge granite memorial to Cornish poet A L Rowse,
 near Black Head


Too bloody steep! Note steps on far side of valley.

The turquoise water of St Austell bay

No photos were taken east of Charlestown. My camera was so wet that the touchscreen stopped working properly, and I was concerned I might run out of battery before needing to tap in for my bus fare. It just about made it till I got home though. Most of the route seemed to be alongside a very long and pristine golf course, the wind and rain whipping across it. Amazingly, I did cross paths with a pair of walkers with their dog. They looked as wet and windswept as I did. 

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