Via Francigena: Monteriggioni to Siena

 

Fabulous day. Not as arduous as yesterday, toes behaved, weather also complied. No rain to speak of, even though we were braced for downpours (and there were massive dramatic storms last night that caused flooding in Siena). Result! Currently composing this after two Aperol spritzes, some chianti and a limoncello, all well above my pay grade, so all mistakes are my own. 

The path was mercifully gravelled mostly, none of the thick mud we navigated yesterday. We set off at 8 am, walked a few miles to Monteriggioni proper, and arrived just as a few cafes were opening at 9am. Had a very sugary piece of apple tart and a coffee each, then Sara and Caroline stayed on to catch a bus from there to Siena (six minutes!!!) while the rest of us yomped off down the hill. Quite a pleasant walk with very little in the way of tarmac until the last few miles. We went through lots of dappled woodland adorned with a smattering of funghi. Elizabeth was suffering with her feet again unfortunately. By about midday the sky was fairly blue, but we had a cool breeze and it was about as perfect as it could possibly have been.

Walking into Siena was like a huge pay-off for the many miles (100) we’d walked over the course of the week. While Elizabeth collapsed and nursed her feet at our hotel en route, Jo, Esther and I forged on to the very steps of the duomo.  We arrived towards 3pm when the afternoon sun was falling diagonally across everything and lighting it all up from within. The streets were bustling and the atmosphere vibrant. The duomo looks like it’s been made out of liquorice allsorts and sticks of rock, with a dusting of icing sugar. We went inside and it was just awe-inspiring. So much beauty. A treat. 

Leaving our temporary abode bright and early

Tart in Monteriggioni

After a shower and a bit of a wander round, we all met up on the Piazza del Campo for a couple of spritzes and then went off to a restaurant opposite our hotel where we had another excellent meal and more alcohol. We haven’t had a bad meal the whole time we’ve been here. Such a jolly evening, and we are blessed that everyone has got on really well and had a great time together while also being able to go at their own pace and feel relaxed about it. A great success. 

A pilgrims’ rest stop where Elizabeth and I fortified our supplies with boiled eggs 

Yellow clay paths through the forest 

Crossing State lines

Rest before the final push

Entering the gate of Siena

Sweaty but glowing with achievement

Massive ice creams

Stunning

Praise de Lawd

Magnificence

Still relatively sensible

Second round of alcohol

Just look where we are!

Raucous by now

Friends forever

Via Francigena: San Gimignano to Monteriggioni

 

We haven’t actually got to Monteriggioni yet - it’s three miles up the road. We’re staying in a converted monastery which is very lovely. We walked from 8am today and arrived at 3pm. At 4pm the heavens opened and it’s now howling with wind and tipping it down. Sara and Caroline took a different, slightly shorter route and didn’t manage to avoid the downpour. God knows how muddy it will be tomorrow. I had a hard time today - my toes were bad, which spoiled my enjoyment and made me feel tired. I changed halfway through into my trainers but they weren’t great in the mud, a bit slippery. 

We saw some beautiful fungi along the way today, and a lot of forest and vineyards, but fewer wineries than yesterday.

Breakfast included! Was awoken at 6.15 by sounds and smells from the bakery below my room.

Leaving San Gimignano

…and its views to die for

Funghi galore:

A fully equipped rest stop with  free food and drink for walkers and a very welcome bench and table

Disused chapel in Quartaia

…and another one!

Meaning business

In the Colle Di Val d’Elsa we saw this huge water rat with its baby. They were munching away on grass and didn’t seem bothered by our presence at all. At least half a metre long.

The old part of Strove is very beautiful

Monteriggioni in the distance

Home at last and we can rest our aching feet

Via Francigena: Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano

 

We were up and out early this morning, before 8.30, to try to beat the weather forecast which was promising rain in the afternoon. We eventually ended up walking in three pairs - Esther and Jo in the vanguard, Elizabeth and I behind them, and Caroline and Sarah bring up the rear.  The landscape was beautiful today, wide-reaching views across the hills. We walked past lots of wineries and gorgeous villas set in peaceful enclaves. It was misty and atmospheric. It was just a short day, and as the middle pair we arrived in San Gimignano at noon and joined Jo and Esther for a leisurely coffee until the remaining pair turned up. It was raining for the last hour or so but we were well/prepared with our waterproofs. 

The day began with an exquisite panoramic sunrise above the landscape, to the sound of cicadas and birds waking up and lights still twinkling across far-away towns

The little grey door of our guesthouse

Yay!

Yours Truly with weird
life-size nativity figures in Pancole

San Gimignano is the most substantial and tourism-driven town we’ve seen so far and was busy with tour groups in the afternoon but pretty empty at night. We visited the cathedral which had amazing frescoes from the 14th-15th centuries, full of human detail. I especially liked Taddeo Di Bartolo’s depiction of hell, which reminded me of Hieronymus Bosch. 

Makeshift skirts compulsory for shorts-wearers
in the cathedral

We found a lovely little restaurant and had tagliatelle with funghi and truffle. Finished by 8.30 and then straight back to our guesthouse and to bed. 15 kilometres to walk tomorrow and we’re setting off by 8am to try to dodge the rain again.