SWCP: Mevagissey to Par

Worked Thursday morning and then got the 2pm train to St Austell. Unlike when I came down to Cornwall a few weeks ago, the train was nice and quiet - in fact, I had a table all to myself the whole way. Very relaxing. The Airbnb is very lovely, all done out in Orla Kiely and bright prints by Cornwall artists. Tres chic. Had a catch-up chat with Jude in the evening. 

I knew at least a week ago that the weather was going to be atrocious at some point today. The forecast kept changing, but it became clear that the morning would be ok. So I swapped the first two sections around so that I could stop at Charlestown (the nearest seafront from my Airbnb) if the weather proved too much by the time I got there. In the event, I soldiered on despite the rain, which was being blown across in sheets. I was wearing my new walking shoes and overtrousers which kept me perfectly dry and warm from the waist downwards. Unfortunately I can’t say the same for my pac a mac which got very damp with condensation on the inside. I was ok as long as I kept walking. Walked from 9 till 3 with just a short break to sit and eat a sandwich in Charlestown harbour. The morning was super. I met not a single other walker, so I had the path all to myself, with its blackberries and turquoise waters. It was very still and I could hear the wash of the sea, the odd crow, at one point I think the moo of a cow. Towards midday I noticed all the cows were lying down, and shortly afterwards the rain began. My sticks made all the difference - I don’t think I could have been on my feet for six hours without them. At the end of the walk I waited nearly an hour in the Par Inn for the next bus, having checked with them that the bus stop just outside was the right one. Had a cup of tea in there and changed into my dry coat and fleece. Turns out publicans don’t really have much to do with buses - it didn’t turn up, and it turned out there was a diversion in place. So another half hour’s wait at the correct stop. VERY pleased when the bus finally arrived! Got home about 4 o’clock and had a shower to warm up. Legs aching a bit. Hope they’ll be able to tackle tomorrow’s walk OK - similar length to today’s, but then on Sunday I only have about 7 miles.

Mevagissey harbour

Very picturesque

Plenty of private land along the way,
dotted with expensive-looking houses with views

The lady herself, just north of Pentewan,
a holiday resort just outside Mevagissey. Still dry!

Huge granite memorial to Cornish poet A L Rowse,
 near Black Head

Too bloody steep! Note steps on far side of valley.

The turquoise water of St Austell bay

No photos were taken east of Charlestown. My camera was so wet that the touchscreen stopped working properly, and I was concerned I might run out of battery before needing to tap in for my bus fare. It just about made it till I got home though. Most of the route seemed to be alongside a very long and pristine golf course, the wind and rain whipping across it. Amazingly, I did cross paths with a pair of walkers with their dog. They looked as wet and windswept as I did. 

SWCP: Hope Cove to Salcombe

Today was another gorgeously sunny day. Colin stayed at the Airbnb nursing his sore ankles and helping Wilson who has cut his paw and is feeling very sorry for himself.

Leaving Hope Cove behind

Some precipitous drops around here. Also very red earth.

 

Master of all he surveys…

Appreciating my sticks.

A mix of gorse bushes and ferns all along here

Soar Mill Cove, halfway between Hope Cove and Bolt Head

We were at about the halfway point here

Turquoise water

Round about here we saw a bird of prey (maybe a kestrel) swoop down beside a hedge and emerge with a rodent in its claws. Nature in action!

Starehole Bay, just around Bolt Head

Further along there were some great rocky bits like this one. Nathan ran ahead at this point like an escaped lunatic. He was the Running Man on the far hillside, followed by a cloud of dust.

Then Salcombe came within sight!

Colin was waiting for us there with the car. We had a pleasant wander around the town and a pasty etc. 

Colin’s trousers not pink/mustard enough 

I had a swim by the Winking Prawn and then it was time for Nathan to catch his bus to Totnes, where he’s getting a train back to London. Colin and I went back to feed Wilson and then popped back out to Hope Cove for a wee drinkie overlooking the sunset. Bootiful!

Driving back in the morning while the Queen's funeral is on. Missing a National Moment but at least there won't be much traffic.

(Postscript: we got home in 3 hours 40!)

SWCP: Kingston to Hope Cove

Started the day at our leisure after a cooked breakfast as there was no bus to catch. Cool, crisp air but clear sunshine. Wilson had a sore paw, possibly from leaping about on the beach yesterday, but seemed ok walking on it. I hadn’t slept much as I woke up at 1.30 and couldn’t get back to sleep.

Dolphin Inn in the background

The inlet that we waded across yesterday was now deep water as the tide was in.

Colin and Nathan are two little dots at the top of this cliff.

Lovely weather again

Tiring steep paths

Towards Bigbury Nathan and I had a swim, spoilt a bit by Wilson getting overexcited and barking too much.

Me trying not to fall over!

This was our view of Burgh Island from the cafe where we had lunch and waited for Colin’s taxi in Bigbury.


Outstanding food!

Once Colin and Wilson had gone, Nathan and I walked another mile and a half or so round to the ferry across the Avon River. Amazingly beautiful, huge, rounded bay surrounded by cliffs. Tidal inlets full of birds and reedbeds. A quite magical place. Also loads of surfers - Nathan reckoned about 60 or so.

Leaving Burgh Island behind

Then walked past a succession of lovely beaches and along a huge golf course at Thurlestone and round to Hope Cove, where Colin picked us up.


The sea along here looked like an abstract ink painting.

Went for dinner at the Old Inn in Malborough, near the lovely Airbnb house. Then back to watch a film on the huge TV, and an early night as all for of us are really tired!

SWCP: Wembury to Kingston

Colin, Nathan and Wilson drove to Malborough yesterday, left the car there (as we’re staying there on Saturday and Sunday night) and got the bus and then train to Plymouth. Wilson managed ok, unaccustomed as he is to public transport. They left him in the Airbnb (very handily located right on the Barbican) and had dinner at Rockfish in the harbour. I took an endlessly long train journey and arrived after 10pm. Wilson did wolffish howling when some other guests walked along the corridor to their room.

This morning we went to Monty’s cafe for a very nice breakfast, marred only by Wilson’s shouting and and some criminally weak coffee.

The sun was shining and the bus to Wembury was on time. We started walking just before 11. Got the ferry across the River Yealm after a bit of a wait. Wilson insisted on swimming around a bit. That dog has far too much energy.

“Find me a stick, Dad!”

Then a longish and fairly undulating 8 miles or so round to Mothecombe Beach, via a succession of secluded and deserted coves. 

Overlooking the River Yealm

Bovvah boys

Getting the biscuits out?

Once again, a lot of this slate that’s been
pushed up into near-vertical layers

As we approached the River Erme, I was delighted to see that the information about tide times that I’d got off some worryingly unofficial internet page had been correct - it was low tide and we were perfectly timed to walk across the riverbed.

O joyous day!

Roll ye trousers up

The bit of wading we had to do seemed to excite Wilson and he was being a right pest.

Colin was feeling temporarily disabled by this point, as his ankles had not taken kindly to the camber and he could hardly walk.

Finally arrived at the Dolphin Inn in Kingston. Had a shower (Colin soaked himself in a lovely hot bath) and then we had to wait till 8pm for our dinner booking. We are all starving as we didn’t really have any lunch. Wilson was well and truly tired, which you don’t often see. The Dolphin Inn treated us to a lovely slap-up meal. Very nice! Looking forward to breakfast tomorrow.