Lucy on the SWCP: SWCP: Kimmeridge to Swanage

Today was a long one - in fact, the longest solo walking I’ve done, and with more ascent and descent too.

Woke up to this view outside my window and the faint sound of sheep.

Went off to get the 8.30 bus, waited a while, looked at the timetable on the bus stop and realised it only runs at the weekend. Called my taxi lady Ange. Was in Kimmeridge by 930 by way of a lovely chat.

Once again, the weather was perfect. Sunny with a cooling breeze. One of the first sights I came to was Clavell Tower. It used to stand nearer to the edge of the cliff (you can see some of the old foundations in the foreground of this picture) but the Landmark Trust bought it, moved it a bit inland and now rent it out. I had a look at the booking page out of curiosity but it’s not available at all. Ange says that’s because it gets booked up the minute each week becomes available, two years in advance.

For most of the day today I could hear artillery fire - zooms, booms, whistling missiles and guns firing. A lot of it incredibly loud, you can feel the vibration and hear the echo rolling across the sea. Ange said it’s become a lot more frequent since the invasion of Ukraine.

View from the top of Houns Tout

Lots of very steep steps today - you can see some up the side of this hill

Another feature of the day were large numbers of youths (uni and school age) doing their Duke of Edinburgh expeditions. All carrying massive rucksacks with tents in them. I encountered a lot of school kid groups sitting down for a rest.

Also saw loads of flowers 😃

Particularly interesting and unexpected was the undulating cliff top above Dancing Ledge, apparently called “Scratch Arse Ware” which is covered with long, lush, vividly green grass. Never seen that on the coast before.

I finally made it into Swanage by about 4pm.

I felt fine legs-wise but by this point the soles of my feet were bitterly complaining about my uncomfortable boots, which were pinching and rubbing. It was so untenable that I went into a shop and bought some new walking shoes.

Bought some food and walked another half hour up the hill to Semra’s house, which is A MAY ZING. Astonishingly lovely. It’s a Manor House in the hills above Swanage with a huge walled garden for gawd’s sake!