SWCP: Helford Passage to Maenporth

 

Just a diddy one today, after working remotely from the apartment. Strava appeared to conk out for a bit shortly after I started walking (hence the straight line on the route above) and the true distance was 5.7 miles, which took 2 hours. Elizabeth very kindly dropped me at the start point, the Ferryboat Inn in Helford. It was a real treat of a walk - loads of variety and lovely views and places of interest.

There are two unique sets of gardens along this stretch of coast - Glendurgan Garden and Trebah Garden. I think I saw the back of each as I walked along the coast path. 

An old schoolhouse near the Ferryboat Inn

Beautiful flowers everywhere. 

There was loads of this stuff on Monday and today. I think it's Lady's Mantle.
It fills the air with a honeysuckle-sweet scent.

Wild primroses flourish here - this hillside was covered in them.

Near Mawnan Smith, looking across to the Helford peninsula

Nearly home - Mawnan behind me as the evening sun filters through

A beautiful little area of planting just by Hotel Meudon.
These leaves become absolutely giant by the summer.

SWCP: Falmouth to Portloe

Elizabeth and I are operating out of her beautiful holiday apartment which overlooks Maenporth beach, just south of Falmouth. We are here all week (yay!) and only working on two of the days. Our legs will get a rest in between long walks, although I plan to get a couple of cheeky evening walks in to cover the bit from Helford to Falmouth (walking to and from Maenporth).

Today was a long one. We drove to Falmouth, rushed over to get the ferry to St Mawes and then the little ferry from there to Place, arriving shortly after 9 o’clock. There was barely a breath of wind and the temperature was pretty much perfect.

We went into St Anthony’s church just past Place.  Beautiful inside and out.

There were wild Shetland ponies on the hillside near St Anthony’s lighthouse.

Good afternoon!

Quite tame

We stopped about halfway, in the village of Portscatho, for a sit down, a coffee and some surreptitious hamster-like munching of sandwiches.

Taken just north of Carne beach - just one more headland to get around!

Quick look back towards Portscatho

Shortly before Portloe, we came across this secret bunker entrance at Nare Head. The bunker was the control room for all sorts of decoy lights and fires during the war. 

The last couple of miles were a bit more hilly than the rest, and at this point the sun came out, so we got a bit hot and tired and it seemed to last a while, but we made it. 

We had a celebratory drink at the Lugger Inn in Portloe while waiting for the bus. That connected with another bus and we just about made it back to St Mawes in time for the last ferry of the day, thank God!

Waving bye-bye to St Mawes

Back to the flat by 7.15 starving hungry and ready for some hastily assembled salmon n guacamole.

SWCP: Combe Martin to Woolacombe

Hardest day yet! About the same distance as Kimmeridge to Swanage last year (and both were on day 2 legs) but quite a bit more ascent. I was fine except for, as always, my feet pinching in certain places. That rather spoiled my fun.

The day started with a slap-up breakfast in our B&B. Wilson lurking/living in hope as per.

Lots of up and down today and we had quite tired legs from yesterday. Wilson had pretty stiff legs and we decided he and Colin would stop at Ilfracombe and bus it back to Lynmouth to get the car. That would save us several hours of bus ride back to Lynmouth via Barnstaple. Yay!

Watermouth, halfway between
Combe Martin and  Ilfracombe

Weather was damp but not actually raining yet when Ilfracombe hove into view. Beautiful town.

We had tea and a sandwich in Ilfracombe. Wilson tired and therefore very well behaved - no barking! Saw this gorgeous rainbow just past Ilfracombe. 

Of course you don’t get a rainbow without a bit of moisture. At this point it was just mizzle, almost like bis of powder flying around. As I walked across the Torrs, the rain and wind picked up and it was extreme. You can see here I’m wetter on one side! 

This area was very beautiful - all russets and greens with the odd touch of yolk-yellow gorse.

I’ve got to go up that zig-zag

Rainy!

I hardly saw another soul. At one point I thought I could see some walkers on the opposite hill but they turned out to be a belted Galloway and his friend.

I got to about a mile outside Woolacombe, where Colin and Wilson awaited me, only to find that the official coast path took me up another hill - twice the distance of the direct route along the road. It was a lovely place but I had to muster all my willpower. It was misty and the day was waning.

Thank blummin God! Nearly there.

Thousand-yard stare at nearly 6pm

We returned to our Lynmouth base via Tesco, hungry by now. What a day!

We all feel like this

SWCP: Lynmouth to Combe Martin

 Today was challenging, a lot of ascent. We were on our last legs for the final few miles. The weather was really good, hardly any wind and we even got some sun in the afternoon.

Starting point 

Steep climb up past the funicular

Valley of rocks - like jagged teeth

A quick lunch stop

The Heddon Valley. We didn’t walk the extra mile to Hunter’s Inn.

At Heddon’s mouth

No fear of heights

Feet, neck, back etc hurting now

Pensive Lab

Nearly there - a couple of miles to go

Just before Combe Martin

We’re all a bit knackered! Staying at the Channel Vista guest house in Combe Martin. Showers and washing of mud from trouser bottoms, Wilson and Colin had a nap, then we went to the local pub for a rudimentary dinner. Hoping to sleep well!