SWCP: Porlock Weir to Lynmouth

Set off from Porlock Weir at 9.30, expecting a helluva day because my Paddy Dillon guidebook claimed there would be 4000 feet of ascent. Don’t know where he got that from!  It turned out to be a pretty standard SWCP day. 

Most of the first half was through woodland with not much of a view. We went past the smallest  parish church  in England, Culbone church.

Toll gate in the middle of the forest

There were a few tunnels along the path,
big enough to let carriages through

Culbone Church

There were quite a few fallen trees across the path 

…and lots of beautiful streams with little waterfalls

About halfway through the route Colin left us and went to County Gate, where some bus routes go. He ended up getting a taxi back to the car.

The entry to some long-ago country house?

Wilson and I passed through a long hillside full of rhododendrons - must be quite a spectacle in bloom.

Then we finally emerged from all the forest…

The sea was a soft green-grey

Lynmouth ahoy!

Colin met us in Lynmouth and after a cream tea, we came back to the holiday cottage. Failed to have a hot bath as the water was tepid, but (unlike yesterday) succeeded in lighting the stove. Wilson and Colin both snoring!

SWCP: Minehead to Porlock Weir

I looked at the weather forecast for Minehead earlier this week - ten degrees, not much wind, no rain expected. So I carped the diem and decided to escape from London for a couple of days’ walking the first two sections of the south west coast path. Col came with. Today’s route was pretty level and easy apart from a bit of a hill at the beginning. We got to Porlock Weir a quarter of an hour after the bus had gone. Two hours till the next one, so we had a coffee sitting outside a cafe, got a bit cold, went into a pub to warm up by the fire with a cup of tea. I checked the bus timetable, only to find that they’d changed them all two days ago and the bus was now at 2.45 rather than 3.30. This was at 3 o’clock! Next bus 5.55 pm. I asked the bar staff if they knew of a taxi firm and a couple in their 60s sitting just by us said “we’re going that way, we can drop you in Porlock, there are buses from there”. So off we went and, lo and behold, instead of dropping us at the bus stop they took us all the way back to our car in Minehead! Really bloody nice. Saved us loads of time. 

View from the “start of the coast path” monument in Minehead. The tent at the left hand side is Butlins!

Looking back towards Burnham-on-Sea

Going up the hill. 
Colin getting a sweat on with his new walking poles.

At the top!

On Porlock Marshes

Stripey cows

Camouflaged. Beach near Porlock Weir made of big stones.

Sedimentary, my dear Colin

Waiting for the bus at Porlock Weir, looking at the lovely view.

 

SWCP: Fowey to Looe

So, I knew today would be a challenge on my day-4 legs, but actually the more limited amount of walking yesterday seemed to have improved their stamina. Up at 8 and posted some of my stuff home so that I wouldn’t have to carry it. Good move. Had breakfast in the lovely hotel dining room overlooking the water, and got the ferry at about 9.30. Got to Polruan and started walking, only to realise I was empty-handed. I’d left my walking poles at the hotel and not once while waiting for the ferry, or on the ferry, had I realised they were missing. I knew I wouldn’t be able to manage the walk without them, so had to get the ferry back across. The bastard ferry man charged me three fares. 

No, I didn’t jump overboard

So this meant I didn’t start walking till almost 10 o’clock. The weather was perfect, a cool breeze but warm. The views between Fowey and Polperro were beautiful, enhanced by the fact that there were loads of hills to climb and therefore a succession of vantage points. I was rather concerned that I wouldn’t make the train back to London in reasonable time so I walked extra fast today, which was quite challenging. Wore my sandals and my feet were ok.

A few scenes from the day. The photos don’t do it justice. The slopes were scattered with autumn colours which don’t show up too well in pictures. The town of Polperro was very scenic. Would be nice to go back some time at more leisure.

We're ready for our close-up now

Polperro

To my surprise, I made it to Looe in time for the 3.15 train with half an hour to spare. I soothed my feet in the sea for a few minutes, which made all the difference. The only time any part of me has been in the sea this trip. It wasn’t massively cold. Having said that, I haven’t seen many people swimming, although there have been a few surfers in wetsuits. 

Oooooohhhhhhhhh

I also lovingly made myself a cup of tea which I purchased from a cafe. Was really looking forward to drinking it, but it was too hot to hold as I walked to the station so I made the schoolboy error of holding it by its flimsy lid and it fell from my hand and splashed all over the pavement. Gutting!

Crocheted all the way back to London. Got home at 930, currently girding loins for being back at work. Really happy that I managed to do the whole route. Nearly 50 miles in total!

SWCP: Par to Fowey

Strava went a bit loony and cut off the final mile or so.

Bit drizzly this morning but by the time I got off the bus in Par towards 10 o’clock the sun was coming out, and after that it was mostly a lovely sunny day. My legs felt less tired today, but I was carrying all my stuff which, with the new coat etc, made an appreciable difference. The distance and elevation were only half of the previous days’ and I took it fairly easy. Unfortunately my feet weren’t 100% and I found that an existing blister was getting worse and that my feet were swollen and too hot. Once again, I hadn’t slept very well in the Airbnb. 

By the time I set off from Polmear beach, the day had brightened. 

The day mark on Gribbin Head warns sailors
of a submerged rock

One of the many lovely coves along this stretch

And so, to beautiful Fowey

They upgraded me to a room with a view. Lovely hotel! Had an absolutely blissful hot shower, fluffy towels and essential oil shampoo etc. Looked around Fowey a bit, lots of nice shops for people with a bit of money to spare. Got a delicious falafel salad for dinner from Sam’s  Brasserie just along the road.

Treated myself to a drink on the hotel terrace

I’ve been musing and pondering all day over what to do tomorrow. If there had been any buses running eastwards from here today, I’d have walked further to lessen tomorrow’s distance, but there weren’t because it’s Sunday. The distance is 12 miles but it’s 3000 feet of ascent and I have my full pack to carry, and a pesky blistered foot. Also I have to get to Liskeard well in time for a 345 train, or 415 for the next one. Bus takes about an hour. I guess I’ll play it by ear tomorrow but I can’t see myself fitting it all in. This is the downside of moving further and further west but walking eastwards - you risk getting left with a little unfinished bit. I suppose revisiting Fowey wouldn’t be much of a hardship though!

SWCP: Portloe to Mevagissey

 Tough day today. My legs were tired from the start and there were a lot of hills. Feet not quite as comfortable as yesterday, and I was glad I’d brought my sandals as I changed into them after three and a half hours of walking and that was quite a relief. It had rained a lot in the night so there was a fair amount of mud to negotiate, but a lot of today’s route was on springy, peaty paths surrounded by ferns and alive with little midgey flies. Also a lot of nettles to avoid - I guess it’s a really moist climate here.

The day started with an hour’s bus ride and then amazing weather - sunny with not a breath of wind. It got cloudier and a bit windy by the afternoon, which was actually good as I hadn’t brought any sun cream and  also appreciated the cooling breeze. 

Looking back towards Portloe

Looking forward to the Caerhays estate

Lots of pheasants as I approached Caerhays Castle. They wibbled stupidly along the fence ahead of me as I walked down the side of the field.

More cows than sheep today.
Busy making cream for the Cornish teas!

Huge Christian monument on Dodman Head

Mevagissey finally hove into view at last.

Rewarded myself with a coffee while I waited
for the bus back to St Austell

I stopped off and bought a waterproof coat on the way home, as heavy rain is forecast for the morning and I’m basically unable to navigate it in that useless mac. Home now, waiting for hot water for a much-needed shower. Wondering if I’ll really be able to manage another 19 miles over the next two days, with full rucksack. Also hope I sleep well tonight. The irony of these trips is that despite all the exercise, I often can’t sleep. Not sure why. Aching legs don’t help.