C2C: Littlebeck to Robin Hood’s Bay

 

It was blowing an absolute gale all night, with the tents straining at their ropes and billowing in and out, so nobody slept very well. We were up early at about 6.30 amid lovely and varied birdsong (the wind doesn’t bother them). Judith gave us the boiled eggs, bread and fruit we’d ordered to avoid another huge breakfast, and we said farewell to the other walkers and were on our way just after eight. The route was along the river for a short while, then across a huge area of moorland. Eventually the coast, and Whitby with its abbey, came into view over to the left. The sea gleamed promisingly at us as the sun unfortunately came out. It was too hot as we trudged along tarmac roads and then, just as we thought we were nearly there, we had to tackle a winding and undulating coast road going northwards the final few miles to Robin Hood’s Bay. Once we hit the coast road there were suddenly loads of people - a warm and sunny Saturday in June and they were all there to enjoy the scenery and the beach. No other C2C walkers to be seen About half a mile out of Robin Hood’s Bay, Elizabeth’s husband Alan hoved into view to accompany us to the official end of the  Coast to Coast and then very kindly drive us back to Cambridge. We went to one of the lovely RHB cafes for a bit of lunch and a fab view of the beach at a shady table (I was still very hot and sweaty) and then our adventure was, sadly, over. Strava has recorded 208 miles and about 25,000 feet of ascent. I now have very strong feet, and feel very light and floaty without my rucksack!

Sun coming out, bah

So near and yet so far

Hot Tarmac

We’re at the sea!

We made it!

Among the things I have learned on this trip:

• Cumbrian and Yorkshire shops and cafes play nothing but 80s hits but all give very good service.
• A heavy rucksack starts to feel less hideously uncomfortable about five days in, and by the end of two weeks it feels like a mere bagatelle.
• The most important element of kit is the shoes.
• What a curlew sounds like and what a lapwing looks like.
• Get your tent down early if it’s due to rain, and bring a spongey cloth in case you can’t.
• Bring clothes pegs.
• I’m capable of a lot of walking and it’s very conducive to a good night’s sleep.
• One of the most important factors for a successful day’s walking is knowing accurately in advance how far you’re going to be walking, with no surprises. 
• Food or a sweet drink will instantly give you a surge of new energy. You’ll need something about two hours in, even after a massive breakfast.
• Far better to walk in rain than in hot sun.

C2C: Blakey Ridge to Littlebeck

 

Today started with amazing far-reaching views across the moors. We hadn’t slept too well as there was a fierce wind all night, flapping the tent and blowing it around, and it also got quite cold. But still got a decent amount. Having had non-decaf tea for breakfast, I was very chirpy all morning! Also because I was enjoying the walking. The paths were all easy, although we did have the biggest road/tarmac proportion of the whole trip today. However, because we were walking at around three miles an hour, with a steady marching pace, we covered ground very quickly and that saved our feet to some extent. We were battling strong winds again today - mostly at our back, fortunately!

Some of the heather is in bloom. It must look stunning when it all bursts into colour

Quick pit stop in Glaisdale - trying to shrink my feet

After a few hours we came down off the moors and followed the river Esk through woodland for a while.

We walked through the lovely village of Egmont (v posh) and across Egmont Bridge, and ended up in Grosmont. It used to have a brickworks and an ironworks, and it still has two train stations. Lovely little place. We had a fabulous lunch in the Old School Cafe by the disused railway line - highly recommended.

Eventually we could see the coast

Approaching Intake Farm

Intake Farm takes in B&B’ers and campers and is run by the indefatigable Judith, who rushed around making dinner for a crowd. Eight of us ate around the big dining table together, and another three or four had baked potatoes in the kitchen. She’s very friendly and seems to enjoy looking after everybody. She greeted us with a cup of tea and a big slice of home-made almond tart. Dinner was hearty and delicious, beef stew, chicken stew,  sunflower cheese and fruits salad with lemon meringue pie. 

Me looking for my tent peg in the undergrowth. It pinged off in the wind and I couldn’t find it.

C2C: Beak Hills Farm to Blakey Ridge

 

Another shortish day today. We had yet another huge breakfast and didn’t set off till about 9.30. The route was largely wide paths (either sandy, as it’s a “dry moor”) or cindery. The last part of it used to be a railway (the Rosedale railway) which was used in the 19th century to transport iron ore. 

There were loads of baby grouse early on in the day

A few hills to start the day with

We had every sort of weather - rain, occasional sun, and very strong wind. Fortunately we weren’t walking directly against it. It was kind of blowing us sideways.

We didn’t really stop much today, except to re-do feet, shoes etc. We hadn’t brought lunch with us as we planned to eat when we arrived. (Less to carry.)

The cinder path was quite hard underfoot, and by the time we got to the Lion Inn we were very happy to see it.  

Huzzah!

It’s situated at the highest point of the Noeth York Moors (1,325 feet above sea level) and is very cosy inside - we are sitting in here until the wind dies down (supposedly around 8pm) and will pitch or tents then, after dinner. For now, we can hear it blowing down the fireplaces!

Eventually we pitched in the beer garden. It was still really windy all night! 

C2C: Ingleby Cross to Beak Hills Farm

 

A much easier day today, after the 40 or so miles we’ve covered over the last couple of days. I had a huge breakfast in the Blue Bell (couldn’t actually finish it) and we were off at a leisurely 9.30. 

Unconscionable

We passed this gorgeous house just past the Inn

Mostly paved today

I’m gorgeous

Walked up onto the plateau of the moors, which wasn’t really very high. Strange experience, as you can look over the moorland on one side, which seems to be quite remote, and then if you look the other way you can see the flat plain just down below, with its roads and houses. The path was all gravelled or paved, and for the first couple of hours it was mainly woodland - quite a lot of beech trees.  My feet were hurting and I feel like I’ll want to throw these bloody shoes in the bin when I get home.

We got to the cafe/restaurant of Lordstones country park towards one o’clock, just in time for yet more food. I had a delicious quiche that looked so nice that I took a photo. 

Work of art

We lingered there for a couple of hours, and bumped into our trio of lovely Irishmen for probably the final time. 

Then just one more hour’s walk to our resting place for the night - Beak Hills Farm. 

Lovely and quiet, nice hot shower, fabulous view from the tent. 

View from Elizabeth's tent

The weather was good today - not too warm, although there was minimal breeze and it was very humid. It’s perfect for chilling out in our tents now. We brought hearty salads from Lordstones for dinner (Elizabeth’s has leaked all over her down gilet and her sleeping bag). No kettle here to make a cup of tea, and no internet signal or wifi, but it’s a lovely, tranquil place to hang out. Tomorrow, another leisurely day to the Lion Inn on Blakey Ridge.