Hartland Quay sunset

Spent the day working in the silent guests’ lounge on a squishy sofa.

Before dinner, this sunset happened.

SWCP: Clovelly to Hartland Quay

 

Strava behaved itself

The scenery and views perked up today. Left the wonderful B&B and its very friendly hosts at around 9 and arrived at about 3. My foot didn’t trouble me too much today. Also, I didn’t have the rucksack to carry, which made a huge difference. I lost my way near Hartland Point and ended up having to climb over a barbed wire fence. Got stung a bit on the legs (nettles) in the course of this exploit. It only rained for 15 minutes or so, which was lucky as I didn’t have a coat with me. Calculated risk. Tomorrow’s going to be rainy but I can sit smugly/snugly inside as it’s a day of work.

Air traffic control tower at Hartland Point,
the most north-westerly bit of Devon

Strange triangular rock formation, called Blackchurch Rock

Lots of riotous wildflowers along the path today

Mint - not sure how it got here

Wild snapdragons

The highlight of the day were the dramatic rocks of Hartland Quay. Amazing formations.

The hotel. I’m in a little single room in the attic. 

SWCP: Westward Ho! to Clovelly

 

Strava went a bit doolally and didn’t record some of it. According to my phone, mileage was 14, ascent was 1800 feet. Quite different from what the SWCP website and the Paddy Dillon guidebook say (in a good way - they said it was 11 miles but 3000 blummin feet!)

So, it was quite a long one today, and the rucksack felt really heavy, especially when I switched from shoes to sandals halfway through. I also took extra water because there was nowhere to get any more en route, and the book said there were lots of hills. I was expecting really steep valleys with steps up the side of them, but it wasn’t like that at all. Most of the route didn’t enjoy any views, but Clovelly was visible from early on. It didn’t look that far away, but I set off at 8am and didn’t arrive till 3.15, despite barely stopping. The weight and the day four legs slowed me down.

Looking back towards Westward Ho!

Distant view of Clovelly

Finally, my first glimpse of Clovelly!

The B&B in Clovelly is gorgeous. And I’m the only guest tonight! Went to the New Inn for fish and chips, tasted delicious.

View from my room over the harbour

The front garden

View from the front door

SWCP: Bideford to Westward Ho!

Slightly more varied walk today, but still on the estuary and almost completely flat. My pinkie toe has a blister, which slowed me down towards the end, but my legs were fine. Strava failed me towards the end. Total was about 10 miles today rather than eight. Had brief chats with a lot of friendly people. Saw loads of lovely dogs. Preponderance of spaniels. The weather was pretty good - a few showers but none of the soaking kind.

These wouldn’t stop a bike
but they would stop a horse and cart

I stopped in Appledore for a couple of hours as there was no point getting to my Airbnb before the 5pm check-in time.  Had a vegan pasty and a cup of tea. The Appledore gig race day was in full swing.

There were loads of spectators

Leaving Appledore

Then I was on the final approach to Westward Ho! - going around Northam Burrows Country Park.  Lots of people on the beach and in the water.

This looked fun - you need a hugely strong core though

The pebble ridge that goes from the tip of the promontory,  all the way around to WH. The so-called “pebbles” are more like large, round rocks at the bottom of the pile, and they get smaller and smaller as you go up to the top of the ridge.

SWCP: Braunton to Bideford

Today was an endless tarmac path, the Tarka trail. Perfect for cycling, and full of people walking, jogging and biking. Views were OK but just estuary. You’d think it would be easy to walk on a level, straight path but the hard texture and uniformity of it did my feet and joints no favours. It felt like a very long day. I was walking for seven hours. However, the extremely welcome aspect of the day was the weather - the promised lunchtime storm manifested itself ans an heavy shower while I was in Boots in Barnstaple buying insoles, so I didn’t get soaked again. 

It was all pretty much like this!

Approaching Barnstaple - clouds brewing!

The Tarka Trail is an old railway track
so there were lots of these

There were some characterful boats 

at Fremington and Yelland

View of Appledore from Instow

The quay at Instow

I would probably have called it a day at Instow if I hadn’t known that I will be carrying a full pack tomorrow and it is designed to be a day of relative rest for my legs. I plodded on for the extra three miles to Bideford but was really looking forward to sitting down. At long last,  Bideford  bridge appeared. 

Hallelujah!

My feet were sore and bruised, my hip joints were complaining with every step. I got to Boots just in time before it closed at 5pm and bought some ibuprofen.

On the bus back to my Airbnb

Should sleep well tonight!

SWCP: Woolacombe to Braunton

Today was a bit of a wash-out. I ended up with squelchy socks and wet shorts.

Walked into Barnstaple to catch the 9am bus to Woolacombe. Started walking about 10. Walked the two miles of Woolacombe beach  and then across fields just past the even longer Saunton Sands (three miles!) where a Union Jack flew. There were plenty of people in the sea, mostly in wetsuits and surfing or bodyboarding. There was a lively breeze and smatterings of rain. 

In a field between Saunton Sands and Saunton

Came down from the fields to Saunton Court, a gorgeous place built in the 1400s, privately owned, with immaculate gardens and a great sense of peace. 

Abundant juicy blackberries all along the route - it’s been a good year for them, even in London. Must be the wet spring.

Signposting not very good and got lost a few times. Walked a narrow path across the dunes at Croyde Bay and got sand in my shoes.

The walk from the southernmost tip of Braunton Burrows to Taunton was the wettest bit of the day. My waterproofing failed and my shoes were soaked. It was tipping it down. It was still a beautiful view of the marshland. Lots of geese, some swans and a heron.