SWCP: Cawsand to Plymouth

Rather wonderfully, the Airbnb owner emailed me last night as I was crocheting and watching Peaky Blinders (eclectic) that I could stay as long as I wanted today. So I set off at 8.30 for the ferry knowing I’d be able to go back there, have a shower and lunch and get my luggage. Very civilised. There was a large fly in the ointment when I got to the ferry landing point - no ferries to Cawsand, due to strong winds. Bum. I decided to get the ferry to Cremyll instead, and then a taxi from there to Cawsand. A taxi from Plymouth would have taken 40 minutes as there’s no car ferry across. I called a cab and miraculously, he said he could pick me up. Problem solved! I could scarcely believe it - I’d felt very deflated by the idea that I’d be missing out a 5-mile chunk of the path. I’d have had to go back again to do it. 

Anyway, the walk was nice and not too long, the sun was shining. Kingsand is a pretty village that looks Cornish and had delis and boutiques. The smell of sausage rolls was wafting out of a bakery so I bought one for later. 

They make it look quite fun

Plymouth in the distance

Unfortunately I did follow a misleading sign at one point, up a steep and nettle-infested path. It would have been slippery going back down, so I walked down to the bottom of some fields and was quite worried that I’d have to go back up again, but (second miracle of the day) I managed to trace a faint path through the brambles and a barbed wire fence to eventually, with great relief, find my way back to the coast path. I had to rush past the beautiful Edgcumbe  House and gardens. It has one of the most massive hedges ever.

Just made it in time for the 1230 ferry (it goes twice an hour) to Admiral’s Hard, then a nice walk back to the Airbnb via the amazing Royal William Yard, gorgeous buildings that have been turned into an enclave of offices and restaurants. Quite stunning. 

Ferry from Cremyll

Loads of beautiful old houses in Plymouth.

And lots of very elegant old commercial buildings as well.

Disappointing

On my return to the flat I was disappointed by the sausage roll as the meat was a horrible slab. I just ate the pastry. 

Had a shower, packed up and walked to Cosmic Kitchen again to get a falafel wrap and finally fulfil my craving. Was a bit on edge as I realised that I didn’t have that long to get to the station for my train. Ended up walking there really fast with my heavy suitcase, negating the benefit of my shower. A pair of cute blonde kids sat opposite me for a little while. The little girl asked me my name and then they moved seats, their dad apologising for the disruption, but they were delightful. As they left the train she waved cheerily and said “bye bye Lucy!”  Train is running late so I won’t get home till after 8. Am pleased with my mileage this trip - 37 miles of the path, plus another 10 poodling around. Good going. Back in Plymouth in two weeks’ time with Col and Nathan!

Me on the train home with (cue heavenly choirs)
my falafel wrap

 

SWCP: Looe to Portwrinkle

 

Cloudy today and a bit cooler, perfect weather for walking. I had to wait till 10.30 to catch a  very infrequent bus to Looe, which took an hour. My route home was via a bus from Tregantle (which meant I’d be retracing some of yesterday’s steps) - there was one at 3pm and another one at 5. I had some hope I’d get the earlier one so I walked briskly to Portwrinkle, but by then it was clear I wouldn’t make that one. So I had a swim at Portwrinkle beach - a blissful rejuvenation of feet and legs - and took the rest of the way in a more leisurely manner. Nothing remarkable about today’s walk, not much picture-worthy. Seaton and Downderry are just long stretches of mostly undistinguished holiday homes and residents’ houses.

Happy days

Tregantle Fort - again.

The bus home was, remarkably, a double-decker. It got on the ferry!

This evening I went out for a sunset stroll on the hoe.

SWCP: Portwrinkle to Cawsand

One of the challenges of this trip has been the logistics of getting to start points and then back to Plymouth from finish points. Friday and Saturday not too bad (no Wembury buses on Sundays or bank holidays, which is why I walked there on Friday) but today and tomorrow was another story. Very few buses, so I had to plan carefully. Last night I decided I’d get the 10 o’clock bus to get me to near Portwrinkle. But because there was no air con, I slept in till 9.30. Cue a breakfast that didn’t even include time for a cup of tea! Horrors. The bus dropped me in Sheviok (very nice bus driver) and I walked the 25 minutes or so down to join the coast path.  Via…

Leaving Portwrinkle behind

Walked across a golf course with breathtaking views across the bay, and came to Tregantle Fort, a huge circular fort built in the mid-1800s to defend against French attack. Still used by the MOD, and there are firing ranges between it and the sea.

Huge, largely empty, pristine beaches all along Whitsand Bay. 

The 14th-century chapel at Rame Head can be seen from far away, perched on the hill. There were wild ponies in and around it. A very beautiful spot with views of Whitsand Bay and across to Heybrook Bay.

Lots of these walls everywhere

Decided to catch the five o’clock ferry (the last one of the day) from Cawsand instead of trying to walk all the way back. I can do that last 5 miles or so on Monday morning. Joined a big queue on the beach at 4.45 and spent a tense quarter of an hour worrying that the boat wouldn’t be big enough and I’d get stranded in Cawsand, but it was OK and everyone got on. Apparently it normally takes 70 but has a licence in peak weeks to carry up to 100. 

Leaving Cawsand

A doggy enjoying the view

Back in Plymouth, I went to get my luggage from the Premier Inn and walked to my new abode, down in West Hoe. Lovely views from the shore front.

My Airbnb is tucked in on the right.

Went to buy a falafel wrap (had a craving for one) from Cosmic Kitchen, only to find they were no longer serving hot food. Bought a delicious bowl of vegan stuff instead and took it home to eat. Wonderful sunset en route.

SWCP: Plymouth to Wembury

The midday train from London was chockers, people having to stand for the three-hour journey. I spent the time reading Jessie Burton's The House of Fortune. Checked into the Premier Inn in the centre of town and was struck by how deprived it all seemed - budget shops everywhere and lots of broken-looking people around the place. Set off straight away to catch the ferry from the Barbican to Mount Batten. Almost got the wrong ferry as I’d only seen one and they were both leaving at around the same time. Good job I asked where we were going - I’d have ended up a half hour boat ride in the wrong direction. I was a bit under the cosh time-wise as the last bus back from my destination was due to leave just before 7. I walked quickly and made it with 20 minutes or so to spare, which I used for a quick dip in the sea at Wembury beach. It was bliss after the walking. Good time of day for a walk actually, as it was cool and quiet.

Ominous clouds as the ferry made its way across. I was hoping it wouldn’t rain as I had nothing waterproof with me.

The Great Mew Stone is behind me.

Prime example of wind-blown trees you get 

along this coastline

Leaving Mount Batten - nice views of the bay 

wherever you look.

By the end of September I’ll

have walked all 175!

My hotel room proved to be a disaster - TV not working, wifi signal kept dropping but the dealbreaker was that the aircon wasn’t working and the room was stifling. I was up and down to reception several times - they couldn’t move me as they were fully booked, and they didn’t even have a fan to give me. It was really hard to fall asleep in that heat and I laid wet towels over myself to get cool. Did eventually drop off some time after 3.