SWCP: Dartmouth to Brixham

We started the day with an early breakfast at Al Fresco cafe (mine was horrible) and were on the ferry to Kingswear by 8. The walk was all steep hills from the start, with barely any flat, and our legs were already knackered. It was a struggle, but at least there was a cooling breeze all day. Like having excellent natural aircon all day.

Wild orchid? Loads of these along the path.

There were no cafes or shops en route but we stopped for a swim in the sea towards noon.

Near Froward Point

We had a bit of a chat with two volunteer coastguards at Froward Point. Retired gents who do Saturday mornings.

Endless steep hills and steps!

WWII gun emplacement

This pony followed us along the paths for a mile or so.

Near the end - absolutely exhausted and not there yet.

We were overjoyed to come to a cafe at Berry Point, about a mile and a half from our destination. Had a sit-down and a very late lunch. I walked the last few miles in my very unsuitable Birkenstocks as my shoes not only had cracks in the soles but were just too uncomfortable. Bit dicey and slippery in sandals though.

Help

Google maps told us we had to take two buses to get back to Kingswear. We got to the first point only to find that the second bus wasn’t due for 45 minutes. Went to nearby pub for a cold drink, went back to the bus stop and then ended up waiting an hour in the sun, before giving up and getting the same bus back into Brixham again. Absolutely depleted. Discovered we could have got a direct bus all along, but it was hourly and the next one was in 45 minutes. So we queued up and got a cab, which cost not much more than the bus anyway. So it took us from 3.30 till 6.30 to get home. Unamused. Too tired to eat out, so eating in the Airbnb.

SWCP: Beesands to Dartmouth

Today ended up being very hard work - more so than yesterday even though the distance and ascents were similar. Our legs and feet were much more tired. Towards the end we were hobbling and staggering a bit to be honest. I definitely need new walking shoes as these ones are knackered and have holes in them.

I woke up really early and couldn’t get back to sleep, so I went for a wander on the sea front in the early morning sun. 

After a hearty breakfast at the Cricket Inn, we set off into the wild blue-skied yonder. Our first task was to walk along the very long spit of beach from Torcross to Strete - Slapton Sands. This was the site of an ambush by the Germans in 1944 which resulted in the deaths of 750 American and Canadian soldiers. There’s also a Sherman tank there on the beach which was sunk during the battle and later raised from the sea bed.

View of Slapton Sands from Torcross - it snakes away through the sea

Going through Strete

Memorial at Slapton Ley

Knackered

Overjoyed to reach Dartmouth Castle. Nearly there!

Dartmouth is a nice surprise - absolutely stunning. We went to the Rockfish chippy and found that we’d turned up on £5 Fish Friday, which happens on the third Friday of every month. It’s the best fish and chips I’ve ever had - hot and crispy. We sat and devoured it by the harbour and then Colin got a licquorice flavour ice cream which was also delicious even though it looked like putty. 

Then Colin went to watch TV in the Airbnb and I went for a walk around and sat by the harbour in the lovely evening sunshine.

Note the large black-backed gull waiting to
nick people’s chips

SWCP: Salcombe to Beesands

We discovered today how little shade there is on the south Devon coast. The sun was beating down all day and the only relief was a blissful dip in the cool sea just after lunch. 

Having stayed in the beautiful house of lovely Laurence in Totnes and chatted with him over breakfast, we caught the bus to Salcombe (which took about an hour) and then the ferry across to Kingsbridge.

Expectant on the ferry

Leaving Salcombe behind

Saw quite a few of these rather astonishing trees that looked as though they were being blown in a gale.

Onwards to the turquoise waters of East Portlemouth.

It’s hot!

There was the usual array of vibrant and/or delicate flora along the way.

After a bit of lunch we had an utterly blissful dip in the sea’s reviving waters. Very good for the feet and legs.

Cove after beautiful, secluded cove

More suncream

Our legs got steadily more tired as the afternoon wore on. 

Colin staggering up to the last few hills on the approach to Beesands.

We had an excellent seafood dinner at the Cricket Inn (where we’re staying tonight) and are now putting our feet up in an attempt to lessen the pain for tomorrow.