SWCP: Seaton to Lyme Regis

Today I tacked the path that goes through the under cliff, a stretch of land that collapsed in a massive landslide a couple of hundred years ago and has a sort of tropical look about it - lush greenery and lots of ferns.

It was raining when I set off.

I started walking at 7.30, half-convinced I wouldn’t make it to Lyme in time, what with all the dire warnings about how long it might take. As it turned out, it was probably the easiest day of walking I’ve had on this trip. There was a lot of ascent and a lot of steps (uncomfortable going up because my thigh muscles are knackered) and also coming down (sore feet as well as the thighs) but each upward stretch was fairly short. Not half as tiring as the big climbs. I only encountered four other people the whole way - two women jogging in the rain on Seaton golf course, and two 40-something pals who overtook me on the path. 

Masses of marguerite daisies all along this bank

Yum - here’s breakfast

Have twigged that these are wild irises

I got to Lyme with time to spare and made a bit of a tour of the shops. Nice town and very small. Loads of people out on the esplanade. Loads of traffic blocking the high street. Got the bus to Axminster and have just had a zonked-out sleep on the train. I’ve had to put my flip flops on as my boots were wet inside (the so-called waterproof trousers I was wearing were anything but; all they did was funnel water onto my feet).

Am reading on my phone a novel called They Came Like Swallows which is terribly sad. I almost do t want to carry on reading. I’m going to have a look at the next stretch of the coast path, ending in Exmouth. Maybe for September.

SWCP: Sidmouth to Seaton

The weather was very calm today, and the sea like a mirror - the little boats in the distance looked like they were floating on air. 

Leaving Sidmouth behind

Yikes - what goes down must come back up...

There were a lot of steep climbs and descents on this stretch - the total climb was over 2,000 feet. My legs were quite wobbly up and down the many steps by the time I’d been going a couple of hours. I was a bit horrified when I looked at the map and realised I’d only done about a third of the route. 

Help!

Well, I soldiered on, and for the next five miles or so I wore my flip flops, which was another mistake as, although it did cool my feet down, it also rubbed them to bits because it was so humid. 

Pretending my feet don’t hurt

Possibly an orchid?

So many lovely flowers along the way, and lots of wild garlic on the path down into Beer

The path from Branscombe Mouth to Beer is overlooked by these huge cliffs. Reminded me of the Dolomites.

Beer bay - a hive of watersports, ice cream eating
and discreet sunbathing

I practically fell into the shower when I finally made it to my lodgings, especially as the signpost took me along the stoney beach of Seaton for a while at the end there. My feet were not happy. I’ve got a full kitchen in my apartment here, so will be eating in tonight (probably after a swim). The forecast is for rain tomorrow morning so I’ll finally get to use the raincoat that I’ve been carrying around for the last three days. I suspect it will be very sweaty. I’m planning to set off early as am slightly concerned about making it to Lyme Regis well in time to catch the one available bus that will get me to Axminster train station in time for my 1.30 train. The path is very up and down (1500 feet of ascent) so it could well take me four hours even though it’s only seven miles. Fingers crossed my feet will have recovered a bit by the morning.

SWCP: Otterton to Sidmouth

Had lovely weather today. My boots were too hot so I walked most of it in flip flops.  Amazing red stacks in Ladram bay. Everything immaculate - litterless and non-squalid.  Sidmouth is a lovely small town with lots of nice shops and a beautiful beach. Bought myself a bikini and went in the sea this afternoon and am about to have fish and chips in Dukes Inn, where I’m staying. I have the ideal scenario here as my room is the only one on the top floor!

Saw a lot of finches again today, including one with a red Zorro-style mask that I can’t identify. Could be a lesser redpoll, apparently. There were loads of wren calls too.

There were seagull parents and kids living on these stacks.

The approach to Sidmouth.

The sun was out all afternoon!

Ended my day with massive fish and chips.

SWCP: Exmouth to Otterton

So, 10.30 train from Waterloo got me to Exmouth by 2.30. Train practically empty, like last time.

Exmouth beach very quiet. 

Up onto Orcombe point just beyond Exmouth

It’s almost rainforesty - bright green and ferny.

Bloody military again! At least there’s no chance of exploding debris this time.

Beautiful flowers all over the place, including a lot of wild honeysuckle. There are wafts of its smell all along the hedgerows.

Already feeling a bit tired here. Had just walked back a mile to retrieve my hat, which I’d left on a bench. It’s only 18 degrees but 80% humidity. My feet are hot.

Lovely Budleigh Salterton. Full of solid, pleasingly proportioned Victorian houses.

Red cliffs

My feet are protesting

Walked through the Otter estuary nature reserve. Saw gorgeous peach-and-blue bull finches and also some goldfinches.

Finally turned off the coast path towards my destination in Otterton. The evening sun came out towards the end, resulting in sunbathing cows. Had had a chance to turn off at the top of the estuary and would have saved 4 miles of walking, but thought that would be cheating. Glad I didn’t - the views from the cliffs between Budleigh and Ladram Bay are stunning. Had to swap my boots for flip flops for the last few miles as my feet were not happy.

Starving by the time I arrived! Yum. Unfortunately the “room above pub” that I’m staying in is really noisy - I there’s a loud noise every time anyone in the building turns a tap or shower on, and the kitchen extractor fan is also much in evidence...